Within Talented Minds

Interview with Kate Chase By Juliette Wolf-Robin, ADBASE

Original Post 

Juliette Wolf-Robin meets Kate Chase, the San Francisco-based founder of Kate Chase Presents, a unique group that represents artisanal photo retouchers. Her website, www.katechase.com, publishes Artisan magazine, which focuses on interesting elements from the work of these craftspersons. Listen in as Kate describes the benefits and the pitfalls of the photographer-retoucher relationship.

• What photographers need to know about buying retouching services
• The importance of building long-term relationships with several retouchers
• How to realistically estimate the cost of retouch work
• Why DIY photographers should bring in an experienced retoucher
• The difference between a CGI artist and a retoucher

The interview is in streaming audio format for your convenience and can be found here:

http://www.adbase.com/Blog/Industry-Interviews/KateChaseInterview

Furthermore, Kate Chase also hosts a free magazine with retouching case studies:

http://www.thepantry.biz/artisan-magazine

Interview with Ruan Van Der Sande

This week, we have the amazing photographer, Ruan Van Der Sande! Ruan’s humble natured combined with his exceptional skill prove why he is an inspiration to many.



Ruan, it is great to have you with us! To start, tell us a brief overview about you and how you found photography.

Thank you so much for asking me to be part of this! Well for those people who can’t tell from my strange unpronounceable name I was born and raised in Johannesburg, South-Africa, where I spent most of my life before I moved to London in 2003. So for the first 27 years of my life I didn’t even own a camera or ever think about owning a camera. It was not until my wife asked me to buy her a point and shoot for a trip we booked to Switzerland late 2006 that I got my hands on my first camera. Since then I have been pretty much obsessed and I have never loved doing anything else this much, and I have never felt so sure of what I wanted to do for the rest of my life about anything else!



What did you do before photography and how supportive are your friends and family now that you’ve found it?

I am still not a full time photographer so I am still doing the thing I am doing ‘before photography’ and that is like so many photographers; an office IT job. I have moved to only doing it part time to spend more time doing photography.  Hopefully I can leave it behind completely in the next year or two and work as a full time photographer. Regarding people around me being supportive, I have to say I have the most amazingly supportive wife who is there with me every step of the way and the same with my friends. The family back home is not quite as excited. I do, every now and then, get asked when and I going to stop playing with my camera and get a proper full time job. My family is very old school and their dream for me is to be a doctor or a plumber…  



How long have you been in the industry and what do you primarily enjoy shooting?

Like I said in the first answer, I got my first point and shoot camera in 2006 and my first DLSR in 2007.  Then I started shooting headshots for friends, basic model portfolios and it grew from there. I have been taking it quite a bit more seriously in the last two and a half years. I don’t know how it happened but I now seem to be shooting mainly lingerie, beauty and a weird mixture of sexy fashion/glamour that I don’t really know what to class as. Some people come to me asking for fashion and some come asking for glamour and I just do what I do.  They all seem to leave happy, so who am I to complain.  

 

Who are your biggest influences and what about them inspires you?

Oh where to start, people always ask this and I never really know what to say. There are so many people and things that inspire me. I absolutely love how Terry Richardson can make the most basic things look expensive and that is something I try to do with every image I shoot. Then I like how people like Chase Jarvis share his creativity and help other people be creative. So I can go on for ages telling you about the small and big things that other people do that inspire me! 

If someone asked you what the most important part about being successful is, what would you tell them?

Ask me again one day when I am successful… But I think the answer would be something like; be nice to people and treat people like you want them to treat you.

When you shoot, do you currently work with a full crew? If so, who does it consist of and what are their roles?

Yes I prefer to always work with a full team (hair and make-up) and as much as I would like to name them all but I would hate to miss one and make them feel less valued than everyone else I work with. The people I do work with know I love working with them and I make sure I remind then as often as possible, so they know who they are. I used to have a full time assistant, for about 8 months, but she has moved on to bigger and better things and I just haven’t found someone fun and funny enough to replace her. 

Do you have a personal preference when it comes to equipment and name brands? What do you primarily work with for your camera and lighting gear?

Ooooo the dreaded kit question. Not sure if I should even answer this question because I will loose so much credibility if people had to find out what I shoot with. Aw well I guess I have to let it out and hope people don’t laugh at me! My main camera is still my second camera I ever bought and it’s a old Canon 40D with a 17-85mm USM lens. Then I also use to shoot with a little plastic fantastic 50mm f/1.8 up until two weeks ago when I went out and got the 50mm f/1.2 (yes I know it worth more than my camera) but I have wanted that beautiful lens since the first time I used one about a year ago.

Lighting wise it gets even worse, because I have 3 x 300w interfit heads that I bought about two years ago and they are still working so I will use them until the day I can buy profoto. So there you go laugh I know you want to… (I am!)

Do you have any words of advice for people who have the passion for the industry but are just starting out?

I still feel like I am starting out so just work your ass off! Unless your family has endless money you better be ready to put in the hours. Someone once said that to be truly good at anything you need to do it for 10 thousand hours.  So start as soon as possible and do it as much as you can every day and every minute you get a chance. Remember everyone had to start somewhere and no one was born an amazing photographer, they all had to put in hard work and many hours. So the more you put in the more you get out. If you feel you’re just putting in and not getting out then you need to put in more!!

What is the biggest mistake you’ve made in the industry and how did you recover from it?

Oh I still make mistakes all the time. I would even go as far as saying I probably make some mistakes at every shoot I do but I try and learn from it and try to not make it again at the next shoot. If that’s not what you meant by the question then my biggest mistake was to forget to charge my camera before a shoot. To get out of it I asked the make-up artist to take her time and she spent nearly an hour extra doing makeup for a simple clean beauty look. 

Tell us about your best experience and biggest achievement to date and what (or they) meant to you.

I guess you want to hear about photographic achievements and not how I met my wife right? Photography wise my biggest achievement to date was shooting the web campaigns for Gossard and also the Rokstarr images for Taio Cruz. Then one of the best experiences I had was assisting one of my favorite UK photographers Roberto Aguilar. I was lucky enough to work with him assisting on various shoots like the TIGI Beadhead and TIGI catwalk campaigns.

What are your current short term and long term goals?

Short term I want to first of all upgrade my camera and get more commercial work and for long term I have to say shoot for Victoria Secret! It’s not that much to ask for is it?

What are your thoughts on the importance of finding an agent or belonging to an agency? Are you currently with one now?

Agents are always a tricky one. To be with a good agent you need a good client base to start with and most people think the only way to get a good client base is by having a good agent. So for now I am not to worried about an agent because I think the day I am good enough to have one is still far away. I will worry about that when I get to that point.

When you aren’t shooting, what do you enjoy doing on your spare time?

When I’m not shooting, I’m retouching, or thinking about shooting and retouching. I am truly obsessed and I fill all my time with what I love and that is my close friends and photography. I can’t remember when last I just sat doing nothing or not thinking about my work. So I am very blessed to have something I love so much in my life and I will never want to change the way I feel for anyone or anything. 

Interview with Sean Armenta

We are excited to have photographer and retouch artist, Sean Armenta here with us! Sean has been an inspiration to so many people over the course of his current and evolving career. You may see more of Sean’s work at: http://www.seanarmenta.com/



Sean, good to have you with us! To start, tell us a brief overview about you and how you ‘found’ photography.

Thank you so much for having me! I originally hail from Vancouver, BC but I’ve lived most of my life in Los Angeles. I spent my early childhood in Manila, Philippines, where I first discovered photography through my mom. Photography was her hobby and she taught me the basics of using a manual 35mm camera. Interestingly enough, she eventually gave it up, and her Nikon F2 and Nikkor and Vivitar lenses went to me, which I then proceeded to shoot until the advance lever broke. I never got it repaired and since lost track of where the gear went which is quite unfortunate. I regret not having a part of my mom and her contribution to what I have become still with me as a remembrance.



What did you do before photography and how supportive are your friends and family now that you’ve found it?

I come from a culture that doesn’t view the arts as a viable career path. Art is seen as a hobby, something you do in your spare time. From very early on, I showed a propensity for the sciences along with a strong artistic inclination. I think my mom definitely geared me towards becoming a doctor, because of the financial stability the medical field offered. I remember wanting to attend Parsons out of high school, but my mom wasn’t having it. I got accepted to UCI as a Bio major, but since I was a Canadian citizen, we would have to pay foreign student fees which we couldn’t afford. The only solution was to attend college in the Philippines, where the standard of living was much lower. I was living comfortably off $200 a month, and tuition was a fraction of what it cost here. While in school, a friend suggested I become a model, being that 6’ is quite tall for a Filipino.  I enjoyed a successful career as a model for a few years, traveling around Southeast Asia. That brought me into the Fashion Industry, and more importantly, introduced me to fashion photography. I had been based in Manila for 6 years now, and at the end of 1999 my mom passed away unexpectedly. Without anyone left to guide me or tell me what to do, I was at a major crossroads in my life - should I continue with my studies or turn around and do something I have always wanted to do? I packed up my bags, moved back to Los Angeles, pursued photography full time and haven’t looked back since.
To this day, I still have relatives and friends ask me if I’m still doing “that photography thing” or when I’m going to get a “real” job. The culture is changing, however. In fact one of my cousins is looking to pursue a career in photography and I was recently approached by an old time friend about the same thing.

 

How long have you been in the industry and what do you primarily enjoy shooting? 

I have been a working photographer for almost 8 years now, and my true passion lies in shooting beauty. This is not to say I don’t like to shoot anything else - I love shooting for the sake of shooting. The only thing I don’t like is shooting product.

 

Who are your biggest influences and what about them inspires you? 

A lot of my photographic influences come from the classic fashion photographers - Herb Ritts, Richard Avedon, Guy Bourdin, Patrick Demarchelier, Francesco Scavullo, Helmut Newton, Man Ray, and Irving Penn to name a few. You can literally take anything they’ve shot whether it be 30 years ago or 70 years ago and it would still be relevant in any modern fashion magazine. That is what is so amazing about their work. It is timeless, iconic, and relevant. That is the same quality that I strive for in my own work.  



If someone asked you what the most important part about being succesful is, what would you tell them? 

Success for me means living the life you love to live. It has nothing to do with money, a huge house, expensive cars, or any of that. I don’t need those things to measure my success. Being able to wake up each morning knowing that I love what I do and I just happen to get paid to do what I love is a feeling that no amount of material wealth can provide. I get to work with immensely talented and dynamic people who are the best at what they do. I get to photograph some of the most beautiful people in the world, and I have a job that never feels like work. There’s not too many people that can say that. In fact, most people complain about their job and their life. I would hate to live that way.



When you shoot, do you currently work with a full crew? If so, who does it consist of and what are their roles?

99% of the time I shoot with a team. The members of the team will depend on what we are shooting that day. It doesn’t matter if it’s a commercial job or a test shoot. I feel it is necessary to have a crew working with you if you want to produce a certain level of work. At the very minimum, I prefer to have a makeup artist, hair stylist, and an assistant on set. If you watch the behind the scenes footage of my shoots you can see how many people are involved in producing these images. Ideally, I try to have a digital tech, a 1st and 2nd assistant, makeup artist, hairstylist, fashion stylist, and manicurist on set. Often times the artists will have their assistants present as well. So you can see how quickly the studio fills up, but it is that very atmosphere of creative energy flowing from everyone that contributes greatly towards the success of the photoshoot.



Do you have a personal preference when it comes to equipment and name brands? What do you primarily work with for your camera and lighting gear?

I don’t think I have much of a preference when it comes to equipment really. I use what works, regardless of what brand it is. I shoot with Canon bodies because I like the images that come off it better than Nikon. I prefer shooting with Phase One cameras and backs for the same reason. I use Speedotrons primarily for lighting because it’s a proven studio workhorse that also happens to be affordable to purchase and repair since it is a domestic brand. Would I like to have Profoto or Broncolor gear? Sure, but I certainly don’t need it to produce great images. I’ve used everything from Home Depot clip lamps to Alien Bees to Profoto to produce the images you see in my portfolio. Your work should not be defined by the equipment you use. 



Do you have any words of advice for people who have the passion for the industry but are just starting out?

I get asked this question so often and the answer never changes. Save your money. Don’t spend unnecessarily because you will need that savings to fall back on when nothing is coming in for weeks or even months. There is a funny saying within the photographic community that goes, “you have to be rich first before you can become a photographer.” There is a lot of truth to that statement.
The only other thing is to be genuinely nice to everyone you come across or work with. No one wants to work with a jerk, and you never know who will be on set.



What is the biggest mistake you’ve made in the industry and how did you recover from it?

I think the biggest mistake I have made is not marketing myself enough and getting comfortable with where I was at. Talent is really not enough in this industry - it only gets your foot in the door. You have to put in the work daily; reaching out to new clients and putting your work out there. You need to be able to survive through the ups and downs of the economy and the only way to do that is to do the legwork. Now I make a conscious effort to at least reach out to one or two people everyday and it’s paying off.



Tell us about your best experience and biggest achievement to date and what (or they) meant to you. 

I honestly can’t say what my biggest achievement is or my best experience is. I don’t know if I’m there yet where I can point one thing out. I just take things as they come and keep trying to push forward. Each experience thus far has just been a continuing learning experience for me; each is unique and definitely memorable. I try to treat all my clients the same way regardless if it’s a small business or a multi-million dollar corporation. Each shoot is an opportunity to outdo the last one.



What are your current short term and long term goals? 

I would have to say just reaching out to more clients and expanding my network would be my main focus right now. I just want to get my work out there as much as possible and get my work in front of the right people. I am fortunate enough to have had some really great projects come my way that makes me push myself creatively. In the long run I would love to have a photo rep and shoot the big beauty and fashion campaigns, shoot the big editorials, you know, who wouldn’t?



Could you tell us a little about your venture, Prep to Post, and what it entails? Do you also have any upcoming events planned? 

I started Prep To Post Photography Workshops through my own experience when I was starting out my career. I didn’t have the luxury of attending a real photography school such as Academy of Art or Brooks, so I learned through trial and error. I always wanted to learn from photographers who were doing the work I wanted to be doing. The workshops I attended that featured fairly renowned photographers however, were sales-based presentations on how you need to use this particular brand of lighting in order to produce this kind of work, which we all know is not the case. Granted, certain modifiers with a specific light output will be hard to duplicate, but it shouldn’t be the answer to producing great work. Then there are the workshops that are put on by photographers who have gained online fame and have never shot a real job and/or don’t really work in the industry I was in. I wanted to present a workshop that gave real-world solutions by sharing my own experience working in the beauty and fashion industry full time. The equipment, software, and techniques I share are the same ones I use on a daily basis and they are proven to work in a practical sense, not just in theory. I also wanted to present it in a non-technical manner that anyone can understand without having to be scientific engineer. 
I chose a format that photographers could relate to by showing the process from start to finish, or Prep To Post, meaning prep work to post production and everything in between, including conceptualizing, gathering resources, assembling a team, shooting and retouching. I do separate workshops that concentrate on different types of photography, for example I have one for shooting beauty, one for shooting fashion, and one upcoming workshop for how to shoot a 10-12 page fashion editorial. These need to be approached differently as each is unique, although the core concepts remain intact. 
The Editorial Fashion Photography Workshop is scheduled for March 21-22 in Laguna Beach, California. This is going to be a hands-on event where the attendees will be able to fully experience what it takes to put a 10-12 page fashion story together. Blu Wedding Magazine, formerly YWD, is in partnership with me and will be providing insight on what magazines look for in photographers. This is going to be the best workshop yet, and the venue is absolutely beautiful.  For more info you can go to http://www.wedblu.com/seanarmenta or to http://preptopost.com  

When you aren’t shooting, what do you enjoy doing on your spare time? 

Spare time? Is there such a thing? Kidding aside, photography isn’t just something I do. It’s not a job that I can just clock in and out of. It has really become who I am as a person, or rather, it is something I was all along and I just recently discovered that. It is very much a part of my personal identity as ethnicity or gender would be. When I’m not shooting, I’m thinking about shooting. I view the world around me as if my own eyes were cameras. I’m constantly composing shots in my head; it’s a non-stop process for me. I am in a perpetual state of learning, especially with retouching. Recently I have gotten heavily into video, which means a whole new world of learning hardware and software has entered the mix. It’s such a fascinating time to be an artist right now with what technology has given us. That’s one of the greatest things about being an artist - everything is so connected to your creativity. I love to cook, and even when I do that I have to pay attention to the presentation of the dish. I want it to be aesthetically pleasing. When I play tennis, I am conscious that my movements and strokes should be as perfect as possible. I’m not just out there trying to hit the ball back. When I watch movies, I can’t help but notice the lighting or framing of the scene, or even it’s overall art direction. Other than that, I guess I like to do what everyone normally does - spend time with loved ones, go out with friends, relax at home with my dogs and cats…and shoot them.

Interview with Julie Kandalec

We’re proud to present this interview with talented manicurist and beauty expert, Julie Kandalec!

Julie is currently represented by Artists by Timothy Priano and has worked with many talented individuals. Her work can be seen on InStyle, Marie Claire, Teen Vogue, Self, Esquire, V, Flaunt, and Scratch Magazine. You can see more of her work on her website: http://www.juliekandalec.com/

Yu Tsai for Esquire

Welcome, Julie! Tell us a brief description about what you do in the industry. 

I am a nail artist and beauty specialist and I do the nails for photo shoots, commercials, advertising campaigns and celebrities.

When did you begin and how long have you been working thus far? 

I began doing nails in 1996, when I was 15. This summer it will be half my life! Crazy. I began freelancing in 2008. 

Courtney Daily for Chiffon

How did you get introduced to your craft? In other words, I would like to know more about your humble beginnings. 

I have always been attracted to small things and to shiny things! Naturally I put them together and began putting those shiny things on nails :) I think the first official introduction was when I went on a tour of a beauty school when I was probably about 12. I remember looking at the manicurist’s kit and at all the fun crystals and striping tape in there. And that’s when I knew.

Who are your influences and how have they changed your style?

 I admire professionals who are not afraid to change it up and go a little against the norm. 

Gavin Bond for Blender 

If you were to do something else, what would it be? 

 I honestly can’t imagine that! But if there were no such thing as nails I would probably be a dancer or design shoes. 

Is this currently what you do full time, or do you pursue other avenues? 

Is there such a thing as extra full-time? ;)

Warwick Saint for Inked

How supportive are your family and friends?

More supportive than I ever thought, and I will always be thankful. When I told my dad I was moving to NYC, he said “It’s about time!”

What did you do before working in the industry? Did you have any hobbies? 

Before nails? Well i was 15 when I started doing them, so nails are all I’ve ever known. I did take some time off though to work on a cruise ship when I was 22, in the gift shops. I loved that. And I worked at Footlocker in high school. My fave hobby is travelling!

Caesar Lima for Nail Pro

Do you do nails for anything other than photoshoots in our industry?

Yes, I also do nails for commercials and film, and I educated in my former salon. I love educating others in nails. I also work at a gorgeous new salon in Tribeca, called tenoverten. Its like no other nail salon in NYC, carrying Chanel polish and having built-in iPads in the tables. Manicures are only $20! www.tenoverten.com 

Do you have any words of advice for people who have the passion for the industry but are just starting out?

There is a lot of competition (although usually friendly) and you have to be HUNGRY. Don’t give up. Do something everyday. “A rolling stone grows no moss” is one of my favorite quotes. Do it because you love it, and it will show.

Kenneth Willardt for Self 

What is the biggest mistake you’ve made in the industry and how did you recover from it?

Testing with the wrong photographers and models. They weren’t bad, just don’t expect a beauty shoot from someone who shoots sporting events and weddings. I just didn’t use the photos in my book; I learned a lot from that :)

Tell us about your best and worst experience thus far?

Best: Having Yu Tsai request me for the Esquire cover with Brooklyn Decker. I love his work and his team. The Esquire shoot was the second time I worked with Brooklyn, and she could not have been sweeter both times. Yu Tsai and I worked together on a shoot a few weeks prior, and he remembered me from that. 

Yu Tsai has an amazing team, and I think that is what makes it so fun! They are all super sweet and ultra-talented.

Worst: Getting lost on the NYC subway at night with about 80 lbs of nail stuff in 2009! 

Chris Colls for Vegas

What are your expectations from your models you work with? Do they have to come prepared in any sort of way or do you handle everything on your end? 

Models aren’t allowed to wear enhancements so that helps a bit, but I’m still prepared for anything in case of any surprises! 

Do you have a personal preference when it comes to equipment and name brands?

YES! Good products make your job 10 times easier and allow more efficiency.  I do my best to be as healthy as possible. Being earth-conscious, chemical-free, and animal cruelty free is very important to me. I love Zoya’s polishes for many reasons, the longevity, they are 4-free, and even vegan. I love the brush and the smaller bottles fit in my kit really easily. Their Remove Plus polish remover and prep is the only one I use. 

I also am obsessed with Qtica’s (Zoya’s sister company) Intense Cuticle Repair Balm. Its a thick balm that seals and protects your cuticles and chemically exfoliates so you don’t have to cut them anymore! Also amazing on your lips, I have one with me at all times!

Lush: I LOVE everything from Lush. Everything is handmade in Canada, all organic, most vegetarian, many vegan products, little or no preservatives. I can’t get enough and my clients love it. 

Chanel nail lacquers. Enough said. They don’t follow trends, they SET the trend. 

I also love IBD gel, and China Glaze lacquers. Love the formula, it never gets thick! And Deborah Lippmann’s cuticle remover is the best I have ever used.  I travelled 2 hours once just to get one for a shoot!

Daniele + Iango from V Magazine 

Did you have a mentor as you progressed through your career?

I have a few! Jennifer Pealer, my old boss for 10 years. Without her guidance, I would never be the professional I am now. Crystal Wright, my mentor and friend, and Melissa Bozant, a manicurist in LA who helped me get my start in the biz. I love you all!

Do you currently have an apprentice? 

I’m always open to meeting new artists ;)